Giggleswick South Mini-guide (updated 2012)

A long fragmented escarpment overlooking the southern end of Buckhaw Brow and the Settle Golf Course. Until the late 1990s and its transformation to a predominantly sport-climbing venue this crag was very much the Cinderella sector of all the Giggleswick Scars. Following a relatively brief period of popularity in the early 1970s it had become overgrown, unloved and neglected. Most of the old trad lines follow deep cracks and corners but there was plenty of virgin, if somewhat loose, rock on the blank walls in between. With a modern approach,a little cleaning and a few bolts the cliff is now amongst the most popular in the area and its west facing, sheltered position makes it an excellent winter venue.

Alcove Buttress Attermire

Described as a small loose buttress in the guide, the crag is in fact a steep buttress of mainly compact rock which now hosts a number of worthwhile sport routes.

Rivock Edge Mini Guide

A small bouldering venue high on the south-western flank of Ilkley Moor overlooking the mighty metropolis of Keithley. Best avoided if windy as you won’t be able to stand up.

Gate Cote Scar Mini-guide

This neglected crag hosts some compelling 80’s lines that will benefit by being cleaned. The majority of these are on excellent water-worn limestone and have good protection but are currently rather dirty.

Lanshaw Rocks Mini-guide

A circuit of mostly easier problems on clean rock with good landings –
what more could you ask for? Set on a lovely spot on the beautiful Ilkley
Moor at 350 metres above sea-level.

White Crag (Ilkley Moor) Mini-guide

Generally clean west facing crag at the western end of Ilkley Moor that gets any afternoon sun going and is viable at any time of the year. The top sometimes requires care due to the accumulation of small stones and in some places the landings are a bit suspect.

Blue Scar Right Walls Mini-guide (updated 11/12/09)

Since the publication of the last Yorkshire Limestone guide The Right Walls of Blue have
seen something of a transformation with the addition of more bolted routes and reequipping of the majority of the older ones. Locating the routes using the YL gGuide and the
updates is sometimes confusing hence this mini-guide.

Trollers Gill Mini-Guide

Trollers is a fine location and can often be dry when all other limestone in the area is sopping wet. How this happens is a mystery, as is the fact that it looks merely vertical whilst in reality it steeply overhangs

Addingham Moorside Mini-Guide

There is much potential for new routes and boulder problems at this underestimated venue and the discerning use a
hard and soft brush plus elbow grease will reap rewards.

Moughton Mini-Guide (updated 17/09/2011 new approach route)

Sport climbing at Moughton has developed relatively recently and all the current climbs are on the sheltered south eastern side
of the prominent prow which gives the crag its name. This escarpment is around 300 metres long and is now split into four
sectors to aid identification. The whole of the crag is on Access Land under the CRoW Act. The field below the Soft Centre and
Right-hand Sector was designated as Access Land in 2007 and rock climbing is a permitted activity under this legislation.

Castlebergh Crag - Settle (updated 21/12/2009)

This crag is the prominent cliff holding up the flag-pole directly above the town centre of Settle. It faces south-west, gets lots of sunshine and gives great views down to the market place. The previously quarried walls give rock of variable quality with easier climbs on the slabby left wing and steep undercut routes on the right. The cliff dries quickly, holds no seepage and the steeper routes can be climbed in the rain.

Yorkshire Limestone Update 5 (updated 21/12/2009)

There has been so much development since the last 2005 YL Guidebook that these updates were becoming unmanageably large. The decision has been taken to separate the Trad and Sport Updates – both of which will be found as updates and/or databases at the Leeds Wall Website.

Stony Banks Mini-guide

There are three sport main areas in the Stony Valley (above Goredale); the Main and Platypus Buttresses at High Stony Bank
and Low Stony Bank. All are best accessed from the parking place on the road above Malham Cove (see YMC guide).

Alternative Widdop Bouldering Guide

For years now the boulders around Mystery Buttress, The Balcony, and boulders behind the majestic Purgatory Buttress have been neglected. This is mainly because there was a lack of information in the recent guides. They had become dirty but recently i started looking for new problems and began cleaning some of the old classics. I started to discover a fantastic circuit which locals had climbed years before.

Crummackdale Updated Route Diagram

An updated version of the Yorkshire Limestone Crummackdale route diagram.

Foredale Mini-guide (updated 28/12/08)

Access to Foredale is currently in dispute, the BMC is negotiating to try and resolve the issues. You can read more here.

Beamsley Beacon Mini-Guide

Situation and Character: Situated approximately 0.7km north north east of the summit of Beamsly Beacon and marked as Little Crag(GR SE102532). A clean although slightly heathery west facing series of four small buttresses catches the afternoon sun but also any wind. A pleasant evening venue approximately 20 min from the road, mostly lower grade bouldering.

Panorama Crag Mini-Guide (updated 17/09/2011 new approach route)

A small but appealing crag in a fine situation and, as the name suggests, with an even better outlook. Though short the routes
provide a variety of entertainments and generally good rock. Their difficulty is usually to be found in short powerful sequences
exploiting good(ish) holds, making them a worthwhile contrast to the merely vertical sport routes on other local crags like
Giggleswick or Foredale.

Yorkshire Gritstone Index

An index for the YMC Gritstone guide.

Piper's Crag

A good selection of problems and micro-routes on a popular Ilkley Moor footpath.